2000 Vintage - first report
As has been the pattern during the last few years, the winter months here in the north of
Portugal were unseasonably dry and warm this year. As a result the vines budded earlier
than normal, which led to the usual concern of a cold spring and late frosts. As it turned out the month of April was warm but very wet with 196.6 mm of rain falling in theDouro during the month.
Although this late rain corrected the water table, the excessive moisture in the vineyards combined with the warm weather led to ideal conditions for fungal infection. This was
particularly the case in the lower lying, warmer grade "A" vineyards. Those vineyards
that did not take the necessary timely preventative measures suffered from severe
attacks of mildew.
The flowering took place in late May under continued unsettled weather conditions. The
excessive vigour of the vines provoked by the late rainfall led to many cases of poor
berry setting. By mid June it became evident that the unsettled spring weather had taken
its toll on the crop. This was further aggravated by widespread outbreaks of oidium. At
the end of June production estimates were showing a shortfall of 20% against the
average year.
The remainder of the year went according to the textbook. A good build up of heat
during the summer months brought daytime temperatures regularly to above 40° C in
July and August. There were however sufficient rain showers in August to soften the
grape skins, thereby bringing the grapes to full maturity by mid September.
With the exception of some beneficial light showers during the first week, which helped
to lower the night temperature, the Vintage took place with no rain and under perfect
conditions. Fermentations were long and even and one noticeable feature was the very
low ratio of juice to pulp in the lagares. In fact it required the whole of my arm to reach
through the "cap" to the fermenting juice!
In a ripe year like this one we tend to favour at Churchill's retaining 100% of the stalks during the fermentation process. I think this is a key factor in providing the added
tannin to give what we call the necessary "steel girder" for the longevity of a Vintage
Port.
As the Vintage developed, two factors quickly became evident. First the quality of
wines being produced was above average. Even at an early stage the colour and
concentration of the wines was impressive. Second the quantities were very low. The
shortfall in the Douro had been seriously underestimated particularly in the high quality grade "A" vineyards. The smaller crop combined with a very low yield resulted inshortfalls in some of these vineyards as high as 70% against average years.
At Churchill's the cooler north facing vineyards of Quinta da Gricha came off best with
a shortfall of only 20% against average. The hot south facing Rio Torto Quintas were
less fortunate. Quinta do Rio had a shortfall of 50% and Perdiz which suffered from
mildew damage was down by 60%.
Although quantities were very low, we believe we have made some exceptionally good
wines. Even though it is far too early to make pronouncements, I shall be very surprised
if 2000 is not generally declared as a Vintage Year.
John L. Graham
7th December 2000
